Page 108 - Dark Shades of Istria
P. 108
Memories and Dark Tourism in Istria

(Fischinger et al., 2007; Kavrečič, 2014, p. 101; 2015, p. 109; Muzur, 1996;
Niel, 1991, p. 41).² The White Cross Society was founded in 1882 in order
to provide health care to wounded and sick military officers. In addition
to the sanatorium in Opatija, it had additional ones in Portorož, Mali
Lošinj and Crikvenica (Blažević, 1987, pp. 57–58; Brezovec, 2015, p. 114;
Kranjčević, 2016), and in some other continental sites of the monarchy
– see Fischinger et al. (2008), Kranjčević (2016, pp. 78–82), or Ball der
K.K Gesellschaft vom Weissen Kreuze im Wiener Konzerthaus (1914). The
latter notes that sanatoriums were promoted in printed travel guides and
magazines from the turn of the 19th century onwards.

In his travelogue (1883), Charles Yriarte³ highlighted the Roman her-
itage of Pula – especially the warfare/military importance of the am-
phitheatre (Arena). In addition, the author extensively described the Ar-
senal, its location and importance for the city (pp. 128–132); he states
that a three-hour visit, accompanied by two military officers, offers to the
layperson a great opportunity to get an impression of the strength and or-
ganisation of this enclosed military area. Despite its attractiveness, the Ar-
senal administration was not in favour of issuing entrance permits, which
resulted in only a small number of visitors. Similarly, Marcotti (1899, pp.
138, 149–160)⁴ did not forget to mention the impressive Roman heritage
in his guide (e.g. the Amphitheatre, the Twin Gates (Porta Gemina), the
Gate of Hercules (Porta Erculea)),⁵ which coexisted with the military in-
frastructure there. The author further describes, for example, the day of
remembrance of the Ascension of 1177, when a great naval battle and vic-
tory of the Venetian navy took place at Cape Savudria (Punta di Salvore
or Rt Savudrija), and the fortifications of Tegethoff on the Brijuni Islands,
as well as the fortifications around the city of Pula and other military at-
tractions and historical facts of Pula; he states that a list of military objects
is also available to visitors, although the Arsenal undoubtedly remains its
main part.⁶ A visit to the Arsenal was possible only with the permission of
the Command (Comando). A number of conquered flags and interesting

² Financed by The Austrian Southern Railway (Österreichische Südbahn) and later donated
to the Austrian White Cross (Weissen Kreuz).

³ French writer, draughtsman, traveller and reporter.
⁴ The author emphasizes the Italian essence of the Istrian towns and inhabitants.
⁵ Described as early as in 1823 by the travel writer Agapito.
⁶ The area was strictly insulated with floor-to-wall and floating barriers in the water (Rutar,

1896, p. 106; Yriarte, 1883, p. 129); Rutar (1896, pp. 105–107) described many other details
related to the Arsenal.

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