Page 123 - Terčelj, Dušan. 2015. The Culture of Wine in Slovenia. Edited by Aleš Gačnik. University of Primorska Press, Koper.
P. 123
Recognising a wine
method. I believe these modernists went too far, as the new wine is no longer made using a
natural high quality production method. If we wish to have a slightly tart white wine, this
can be achieved through the natural maceration procedure. In this way, other substances
are extracted in addition to tannin, in particular aromas present in the skin and pips. If our
economists and young oenologists wish to follow the modern trends they would do well
to use old natural procedures recommended by Vertovec as far back as 1844.
The newer technological procedures for the production of white and red wine are currently
moving in the following directions:
1. The production of white wines:
• For a better varietal bouquet: using a short, cold maceration, lasting a few hours or
by adding to the crushed grapes during fermentation 2 to 3 percent whole grapes.
With a slightly lower fermentation temperature of 15-18˚C a better varietal bouquet
can be achieved that has a gentle floral or fruity note. Such wines are fresher, more
drinkable and have a lower extract.
• To achieve a higher extract in white wines: using hyperoxidation of must or with the
maturation of wine on lees for 3 to 6 months in smaller wooden barrels, which no
longer have the barrique function. By mixing we prevent rotting and accelerate the
extraction of glycoproteins (mannoproteins) from the dead yeast. At the same time, a
malolactic fermentation takes place with the transformation of malic acid into lactic
acid, as the latter is milder and softer on the palate. Such wines have a higher alcohol
content, a rich aroma of ripe fruit, citrus fruits and herby notes. They are suitable for
long maturation in the bottle.
The use of hyperoxidation in must facilitates a faster multiplication of yeast and the clearing
of must. During alcohol fermentation more alcohol and glycerol is produced, giving the
wine its body and high extract.
2. The production of red wines:
• A short carbon maceration of 2 to 3 days in order to obtain young wines with a great
deal of freshness, fruity aroma and tartness that is not the result of tannin.
• Long-term classical or carbon maceration (up to a month), known as post-maceration.
These wines are undrinkable when young; they have a bitter taste, but are suited to
spending a few years maturing in a wooden vessel. Their colour is stable and with years
of maturation, due to the oxidation and polymerisation of polyphenols, they become
velvety, full-bodied with a rich aroma, with a plant or even animal character (esters and
ethers). The maturation of these wines can be shortened with the use of microoxida-
tion: that is, the introduction of small quantities of oxygen from an oxygen cylinder.
This technology can also be used for red wines kept in stainless steel vessels.
Barrique wines
In ancient times in the eastern Mediterranean wine was nurtured, stored and transported
in clay vessels with a characteristic shape, called an amphora. Wood, in particular oak,
was first used by the Celts in Galicia in the present-day France when making and storing
119
method. I believe these modernists went too far, as the new wine is no longer made using a
natural high quality production method. If we wish to have a slightly tart white wine, this
can be achieved through the natural maceration procedure. In this way, other substances
are extracted in addition to tannin, in particular aromas present in the skin and pips. If our
economists and young oenologists wish to follow the modern trends they would do well
to use old natural procedures recommended by Vertovec as far back as 1844.
The newer technological procedures for the production of white and red wine are currently
moving in the following directions:
1. The production of white wines:
• For a better varietal bouquet: using a short, cold maceration, lasting a few hours or
by adding to the crushed grapes during fermentation 2 to 3 percent whole grapes.
With a slightly lower fermentation temperature of 15-18˚C a better varietal bouquet
can be achieved that has a gentle floral or fruity note. Such wines are fresher, more
drinkable and have a lower extract.
• To achieve a higher extract in white wines: using hyperoxidation of must or with the
maturation of wine on lees for 3 to 6 months in smaller wooden barrels, which no
longer have the barrique function. By mixing we prevent rotting and accelerate the
extraction of glycoproteins (mannoproteins) from the dead yeast. At the same time, a
malolactic fermentation takes place with the transformation of malic acid into lactic
acid, as the latter is milder and softer on the palate. Such wines have a higher alcohol
content, a rich aroma of ripe fruit, citrus fruits and herby notes. They are suitable for
long maturation in the bottle.
The use of hyperoxidation in must facilitates a faster multiplication of yeast and the clearing
of must. During alcohol fermentation more alcohol and glycerol is produced, giving the
wine its body and high extract.
2. The production of red wines:
• A short carbon maceration of 2 to 3 days in order to obtain young wines with a great
deal of freshness, fruity aroma and tartness that is not the result of tannin.
• Long-term classical or carbon maceration (up to a month), known as post-maceration.
These wines are undrinkable when young; they have a bitter taste, but are suited to
spending a few years maturing in a wooden vessel. Their colour is stable and with years
of maturation, due to the oxidation and polymerisation of polyphenols, they become
velvety, full-bodied with a rich aroma, with a plant or even animal character (esters and
ethers). The maturation of these wines can be shortened with the use of microoxida-
tion: that is, the introduction of small quantities of oxygen from an oxygen cylinder.
This technology can also be used for red wines kept in stainless steel vessels.
Barrique wines
In ancient times in the eastern Mediterranean wine was nurtured, stored and transported
in clay vessels with a characteristic shape, called an amphora. Wood, in particular oak,
was first used by the Celts in Galicia in the present-day France when making and storing
119