Page 67 - Terčelj, Dušan. 2015. The Culture of Wine in Slovenia. Edited by Aleš Gačnik. University of Primorska Press, Koper.
P. 67
The Culture of Wine Drinking
Until the mid-20th century, individual winegrowing regions in Slovenia would have only
one or two kinds of wine, usually blended from a number of varieties. In the Brda Hills there
was Rebula, in the Vipava area Vipavec, in Dolenjska Cviček, in Bela Krajina Metliška
Črnina, in the Bizeljsko area Bizeljčan and in Haloze Haložan. In Štajerska, there was
Ljutomerčan, Jeruzalemčan, Ritoznojčan, Pekrčan, etc. The following were examples
of better quality wines from a single variety of grapes: on the Kras Kraški Teran, in Istra
Refošk and Malvazija, in Bela Krajina Laški Rizling, in the Jeruzalem and Ormož hills
Šipon, etc. Only the most modern winegrowers from individual areas made small quantities
of single-variety wines for special occasions. In the Vipava area, they would produce Zelen
and Pinela, in the Brda Tokay, in Štajerska Sauvignon, Rulandec (Pinot Gris), Chardonnay,
Beli Pinot (Pinot Blanc), Traminec and so on.
These wines were dry, without any residual sugar and suitable for quenching thirst, during
a meal or heavy physical work. They were drunk from ordinary glasses and only inns aimed
at those that were rather well-off had table cloths, glasses with stems and single-variety
bottled wine. If we were to evaluate wine-drinking habits during the one hundred and fifty
years until World War Two, we could not really say that they were undeveloped: wine was
consumed with a reasonable degree of respect, it was valued, it united people and raised
the quality of life. It contributed to the latter even though wines were not yet chosen by
their flavour to accompany a particular dish. When innkeepers went shopping for wine,
they would take with them someone who was an expert: he would offer advice as to which
wine should be bought, which was of good quality and which was drinkable enough to
satisfy the drinkers in his establishment. The main criterion was drinkability. Today, this
criterion no longer applies in local and national wine assessments. With regard to the
quality of wine and food served, inns were divided into quality catering establishments
and ordinary public houses, which served only as places for excessive drinking.
The significance of wine today
After World War Two and in the second half of the 20th century conditions in viniculture,
the consumption of wine, the way wine was drunk and the lifestyle changed dramatically.
In all three winegrowing regions vineyards were planted and grown in line with modern
technological principles to produce high yields of top-quality grape varieties. The varieties
thought suitable for the northern areas and grown in Podravje spread around the whole
country. At the same time, each district built modern wine cellars that produced and
bottled high quality wines. With time, small private winegrowers also switched to the
modern production of grapes and wines for bottling. Bottled wines were sold in all retail
establishments, promoting wine drinking at home, while an increase in the number of
cars and stricter driving laws limited the consumption of wine in catering establishments.
The large differences in the organoleptic properties of wine in all three regions diminished,
while the character and fine features of individual wines remained. A drinker must learn
how to distinguish and enjoy the subtle differences between various wines. In the past,
there were very few educated wine experts: only the biggest wine cellars had a few techni-
cians who improved their knowledge through practical work. Now the number of experts
or educated oenologists, who have started training personnel in technical schools and
at university, has increased. Various institutes connected with wine have appeared and
63
Until the mid-20th century, individual winegrowing regions in Slovenia would have only
one or two kinds of wine, usually blended from a number of varieties. In the Brda Hills there
was Rebula, in the Vipava area Vipavec, in Dolenjska Cviček, in Bela Krajina Metliška
Črnina, in the Bizeljsko area Bizeljčan and in Haloze Haložan. In Štajerska, there was
Ljutomerčan, Jeruzalemčan, Ritoznojčan, Pekrčan, etc. The following were examples
of better quality wines from a single variety of grapes: on the Kras Kraški Teran, in Istra
Refošk and Malvazija, in Bela Krajina Laški Rizling, in the Jeruzalem and Ormož hills
Šipon, etc. Only the most modern winegrowers from individual areas made small quantities
of single-variety wines for special occasions. In the Vipava area, they would produce Zelen
and Pinela, in the Brda Tokay, in Štajerska Sauvignon, Rulandec (Pinot Gris), Chardonnay,
Beli Pinot (Pinot Blanc), Traminec and so on.
These wines were dry, without any residual sugar and suitable for quenching thirst, during
a meal or heavy physical work. They were drunk from ordinary glasses and only inns aimed
at those that were rather well-off had table cloths, glasses with stems and single-variety
bottled wine. If we were to evaluate wine-drinking habits during the one hundred and fifty
years until World War Two, we could not really say that they were undeveloped: wine was
consumed with a reasonable degree of respect, it was valued, it united people and raised
the quality of life. It contributed to the latter even though wines were not yet chosen by
their flavour to accompany a particular dish. When innkeepers went shopping for wine,
they would take with them someone who was an expert: he would offer advice as to which
wine should be bought, which was of good quality and which was drinkable enough to
satisfy the drinkers in his establishment. The main criterion was drinkability. Today, this
criterion no longer applies in local and national wine assessments. With regard to the
quality of wine and food served, inns were divided into quality catering establishments
and ordinary public houses, which served only as places for excessive drinking.
The significance of wine today
After World War Two and in the second half of the 20th century conditions in viniculture,
the consumption of wine, the way wine was drunk and the lifestyle changed dramatically.
In all three winegrowing regions vineyards were planted and grown in line with modern
technological principles to produce high yields of top-quality grape varieties. The varieties
thought suitable for the northern areas and grown in Podravje spread around the whole
country. At the same time, each district built modern wine cellars that produced and
bottled high quality wines. With time, small private winegrowers also switched to the
modern production of grapes and wines for bottling. Bottled wines were sold in all retail
establishments, promoting wine drinking at home, while an increase in the number of
cars and stricter driving laws limited the consumption of wine in catering establishments.
The large differences in the organoleptic properties of wine in all three regions diminished,
while the character and fine features of individual wines remained. A drinker must learn
how to distinguish and enjoy the subtle differences between various wines. In the past,
there were very few educated wine experts: only the biggest wine cellars had a few techni-
cians who improved their knowledge through practical work. Now the number of experts
or educated oenologists, who have started training personnel in technical schools and
at university, has increased. Various institutes connected with wine have appeared and
63
